Contrasts From India

Every quilt maker knows that the secret to a successful quilt is contrast. Indians brings that concept into an incredibly rich physical reality.

As a case in point, the two cities we have visited so far; Delhi appears modern and sophisticated, more like a Europe (not exactly, but…), while Kolkata feels like an old world bizarre from another time and place. A simple example is with the hotel breakfast buffet- one half will be European with fruit, yogurt, sweet breads and cereals and the other half is the best Indian buffet array of idlis, dosas, dals, and curries. And so it goes, everything we continue to see here is contrast upon contrast upon contrast, a complex patchwork that is taking its time coming together in my mind. Guess below which is which city???

India is home to 95% of the world’s total handwoven fabric. Handloom weaving is the second largest employer in the country, agriculture being the first. All of this hand-work occurs across the country, most of it in the hinterlands. Yesterday, we were in Bolpur/Shantiniketan, an area about two hours north west of Kolkata by train. (The train station and the train ride are a whole story for another time!!) Our guide, Bibhuti Das, took us to six locations, here we have another example of complexity, this time with hand weaving. From one end, we met Bipod Lohar at his Mahua Natural Fashion Garments at his workshop where he creates farm-to-table, growing natural dyes for his handwoven fabrics stitched into Asian style clothing designs for an exclusive Japanese boutique designer, Gomi Taro. On the other, was the cottage industry of kantha embroidery run by Partha Nandi and her family. They supply hundreds of stitchers from all over the area. I was lucky enough to meet a mother and her daughters working in the supply house and discuss many production issues with Partha and her husband.

Stepping backwards in our trip, in Delhi, we attended National Handweavers Day, a convention of buyers, exhibitors, award-winning hand weavers from across the country and the world. We spent time with the foreign buyers group- one character after another an older Irish gentleman, a Japanese designer living in India, an Asian cook specializing in kimchi infused Indian foods and a man from Malaysia buying all types of hand made products. There were many, many wholesalers of cashmere and pashmina, one more magnificent than the next, made with no automation of any kind, making them very proud of their zero carbon footprint. (Which is quite funny because there is garbage and plastic waste everywhere,)

Another time I will discuss the culture, politics, religion and spirtuality, but just to say that everyone we meet talks freely about (T)Rump’s stupidity. They take his tariffs very personally!!

One final thought: We are 12 hours ahead in time, so as I write this and you read it, you have an extra 12 hours on me, to be and to do. ENJOY!!